British people drink more tea than anyone else. It is served first thing in the morning and punctuates the day, providing an uplift when all else fails, until the final "cuppa" is brewed before bedtime. Ten pounds per person are said to be imported into the British Isles per year, and that, if 300 cups can truly be made from a pound of tea, is 3000 cups a year, or a little over eight cups a day. I'm not sure that this figure takes into account the tea that is then exported. Tea is consumed worldwide more than any other drink except water. Americans average four cups a day and the Dutch only two.

Apart from herb teas, tea comes from one species of plant, a flowering evergreen that is usually pruned to a height of between three and five feet. Teas vary enormously because of the differences in growing conditions, the kind of leaves used, and how the leaves are processed. As with coffee, the best tea is grown at a high altitude where the leaves mature more slowly than in hot lowlands. Most tea is grown in India, Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, Japan, Indonesia, and parts of Africa.

Teas generally fall into three categories: Black, green, and the brown oolong. Like coffee and wines, tea varies according to the region in which it is grown, the sun, rainfall, altitude, soil, season, time of day picked, and the skill of the picker. Black tea is fermented before firing or heat drying. Brown tea, such as oolong, is partially fermented and is not as strong as black tea but has a more assertive flavor than green tea. Green tea, the ceremonial tea of Japan and the tea served in many Chinese and Japanese restaurants, is not fermented. Green teas are lighter than black teas with less pronounced flavor that can, nevertheless, be extremely subtle and satisfying. Many health benefits are also attributed to green tea.

The names can be confusing. Orange Pekoe has nothing to do with oranges; the term denotes the size of the leaf not the taste of the tea, and it is a black tea. Darjeeling and Assam are not types but are named for the places where they are grown.

Terms for tea tasting are also confusing and certainly baroque. A leaf may be described as common, hairy, tippy, shotty, chesty (a smell caused by inferior tea chest panels), or cheesy (caused by inferior glue on those panels). The brew can be baggy (tainted from sacking), brassy, biscuity, croppy, sweaty, tired, or simply gone-off..

Teas are sold in small closed tins or loose, in bulk, or in bags. The tins have a long shelf life - up to two years - but bulk tea can lose its flavor fast, especially if the containers in which the tea is stored are not tightly closed.

Tea leaves should crumble between your fingers but should not turn to powder at the first touch. They should be slightly resilient. The best tea leaves are tightly rolled.

Black tea packaged in an airtight container will keep its flavor for about two years, green and brown teas for about six months. They must, however, be kept in a sealed tin for, as the head of Twinings points out, tea absorbs smells like blotting paper.

Herb teas without caffeine are becoming more popular these days and Cardullo's has a particularly large selection. In Morocco, meals are always ended with a pot of mint tea. A large bunch of fresh mint is picked and infused into green tea that is brewed in a metal pot and flavored with spoonfuls of sugar. It is poured from a great height back and forth between a small glass and the pot until the desired strength is reached. After several infusions, the tea is poured and passed around. This is a delightful end to lemon chicken and cous cous as your gallivanting gourmet can personally attest to.

Black teas include Assam from India, full bodied and stimulating and good quality. Lapsang Souchang originated in Fujian province in China and is a smoky tea grown in soil rich with minerals. It has large curled leaves. The name Souchong also applies to teas with this size leaf in India, Indonesia, and Sri Lanka.

Formosa oolong is a gentle brown unblended tea from Formosa whose fruity aroma is often compared to that of ripe peaches.

Gunpowder is the world's oldest tea and lowest in caffeine and is made from rolled young green tea leaves. It is a mild and astringent tea and goes with Chinese and Japanese food.

China Black is a mellow Keemun tea served in Chinese restaurants.

Some teas are scented with oranges, lime, lemon, or cinnamon. Earl Grey is a traditional blend of China and Darjeeling teas with a smoky fragrance that comes from oil of bergamot. It is one of the most popular of the teas.

Jasmine tea is often made with dried jasmine flowers added to green tea leaves from Guagdong Province and is sometimes mixed with black tea.

The aristocracy of Britain and Russia were as fond of tea as anyone. A tea called Prince of Wales is a smooth and rich blend from the northern China province of Anhui, while Queen Mary blend is a mixture of Darjeeling teas, mainly Orange Pekoe. Russian Caravan, said to have been the Czar's favorite, was then a hearty blend of China black oolong brown teas. It now varies depending upon the supplier.

For those who prefer to wake up with tea instead of coffee in the morning, there are breakfast blends. Ceylon Breakfast tea is mild but deep gold in color, with a lovely bouquet. English Breakfast tea is a blend of Ceylon and India leaves, while Irish Breakfast is a pungent blend of Assam and Ceylon teas. All are strong and can stand up to milk and sugar.

The larger the leaf, the milder the brew and the longer the brewing time required. Always use fresh, cold tap water, and don't forget to warm the pot and pour the water into it the minute you add the leaves.

Tea bags are to tea what instant coffee is to coffee. They are both convenient but it only takes a moment or two longer to brew the real thing.